e the impressive lines of the finest buildings in
Rio, such as the Academy of Fine Arts. Naturally, in a young country like
Brazil--I am speaking of new Brazil, now wide awake, not of the Brazil
which has been asleep for some decades--perfection cannot be reached in
everything in one day. It is really marvellous how much the Brazilians
have been able to accomplish during the last ten years or so in their
cities, on or near the coast.
Brazilians have their own way of thinking, which is not ours, and which
is to us almost incomprehensible. They are most indirect in their
thoughts and deeds--a characteristic which is purely racial, and which
they themselves cannot appreciate, but which often shocks Europeans. For
instance, one of the most palatial buildings in the Avenida Central was
built only a short time ago. In it, as became such an up-to-date
building, was established a lift. But do you think that the architect,
like all other architects anywhere else in the world, would make the lift
start from the ground floor? No, indeed. The lift only starts from the
second floor up--and, if I remember rightly, you have to walk some
thirty-eight steps up a grand staircase before you reach it! Do you know
why? Because the architect wished to compel all visitors to the building
to admire a window of gaudy coloured glass half-way up the staircase. In
this way they reason about nearly everything. They have not yet mastered
the importance and due proportion of detail. Frequently what is to us a
trifling detail is placed by them in the forefront as the most important
point of whatever they undertake.
Thanks to the strong credentials I carried--among which were letters from
H.E. Regis de Oliveira, Brazilian Minister in London--I was received in
Rio de Janeiro with the utmost consideration and kindness. From the
President of the Republic to the humblest citizens, all with no exception
treated me with charming civility. My stay in Rio was a delightful one.
The Brazilians of the principal cities were most courteous and
accomplished, and it was a great pleasure to associate with them. Intense
interest was shown by the Government of the country and by the people in
my plan to cross the continent. Dr. Pedro de Toledo, the Minister of
Agriculture, was specially interested in the scheme, and it was at first
suggested that the expedition should be an Anglo-Brazilian one, and that
I should be accompanied by Brazilian officers and soldiers. Colon
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