debted either to the doctor or the padre,--who would, however, I am
sure, have been ready to help me. I was thus able to purchase a rifle
and other weapons. The doctor had preserved his; and the padre supplied
himself with arms at the same time.

We set off towards the middle of the day, and had thus made some
progress before sunset. Our life was very similar to that which we led
when coming up the Magdalena. We landed at night on the shore, where we
built some huts for shelter, lighted a fire, cooked our provisions, and
then lay down to rest.

I was on foot before my companions the next morning; and rambling, gun
in hand, along the bank of a small stream which ran into the main river,
was much struck with the calm beauty of the scene, so different from
anything I had witnessed for many months. The vegetation was rich in
the extreme,--creepers with gay colours hanging from all the branches,
with graceful reed-like plants springing up at the water's edge, while
on the surface floated large green leaves,--on which I saw a long-footed
jacana standing while engaged in fishing for her breakfast. The idea
came across my mind, How much happier it would be to live amid scenes
like this, instead of having to go back to the wild turmoil of the camp
or engage in the heady fight; but while my country remained enslaved, it
was my duty to risk life and limb, and to sacrifice everything else, to
set her free,--so I quickly banished the thought, and hastened back to
my friends.

Having breakfasted, we proceeded on our voyage. Our canoe was a curious
craft: she was formed of a single vast trunk (hollowed out by fire and
the axe), forty feet in length, and scarcely more than three in beam,
with upper works added to her; and on the after part was a platform
projecting over the sides, on which was erected a small low cabin or
toldo. The deck, if I may so term it, was covered with jaguar-skins, on
which we could stretch ourselves when we wished to escape from the heat
of the sun. A dozen Indian rowers sat, two and two, in the fore part,
with paddles three feet long in the form of spoons; and they kept very
regular stroke by singing songs, which were of a somewhat sad and
monotonous character.

Our craft was so crank that one of us could not venture to lean over on
one side unless we gave notice to balance the boat by inclining on the
other. Still we made very good progress, considering the current that
was against us.

Durin