y
their chief pastor, with sorrow and shame.
After the second service, I accompanied my friends in a boat to the
head of the harbour, where it receives a small stream (the drain of
some lake, or of the bogs and mosses in the neighbourhood), which
winds and creeps between some magnificent mountains. While they were
fishing I wandered, climbing over the boulders, along the borders of
the stream, to enjoy the solitude and deep silence of the winding
valley. The absence of all living creatures, except mosquitoes and
dragon-flies, is a striking feature; and the occasional whistle or
scream of some sea-bird only renders the prevailing stillness more
strange; grateful or painful, according to the disposition and state
of mind.
We returned to the ship soon after sunset, frightfully eaten by
mosquitoes. The fishers had all had plenty of bites, and realized a
new phase of "fly-fishing," but carried home among them one trout
only. The mosquitoes had got possession of the Church-ship, and paid
us off for invading their solitudes.
_Saturday, July 9th. At sea._--We left Little Harbour Deep soon after
three o'clock A.M., with a fair wind, which died away outside, and we
did not reach our next place of call (Little Coney Arm) till five
o'clock P.M. There new delay and difficulty awaited us. We fired two
guns, but no person came off, and not a single boat could anywhere be
seen. The whole shore seemed deserted. Nevertheless, we discerned
houses in the harbour, and stood towards the entrance; but finding the
water shoal suddenly, the captain let go the anchor, and sent a boat
in, with the mate and three of my companions. They brought word, to my
great mortification, that nearly all the inhabitants had gone to fish
in other parts of the bay, and that but one old man, with the females
and children of three families, remained. Him they brought off to be
our pilot. Unfortunately, in getting again under way, we went to
leeward of the entrance, and immediately after the wind dropped
altogether. The tide then drifted us into Great Coney Arm, and every
tack took us farther to leeward. It seemed almost certain we should be
carried to the head of the Bight, to spend the Sunday in a solitary
place; but by keeping a boat ahead, with four hands, sometimes of the
crew, sometimes of the clergy, we maintained our ground until, about
eleven o'clock, a breeze sprang up in our favour, and we regained the
entrance of the Little Arm, and came to ancho
|