birch, and maple, have almost
displaced the spruce, and no green could be more fresh and delicate.
These mountains are on each side of the Arm, to its extremity, which
is nearly closed by a round, or conical hill, similarly covered with
trees; on either side of which you may enter into a valley, between
lofty rocks, and through which probably a small river or brook conveys
the surplus water of some lake or lakes lying farther up the country.
The solemn effect of the scenery was heightened by the absence of all
traces and signs of men or other animals; and the occasional scream of
a gull looking down upon us, made the general silence and solitude
more impressive. How prodigal is nature of her beauties and glories,
thus repeated and renewed in places where there is no one to admire,
and very few to see them!
_Tuesday, July 19th. Seal Cove, and at sea._--The wind was not more
favourable to day than yesterday, except that it was not so strong;
but we thought it better to go out in the hope of some change, in the
mean time beating to windward. After standing across the bay and back,
a distance of nearly thirty miles (fourteen or fifteen each way), we
found we had only gained a mile and a half, and the next tack only
advanced us about as much more. The next time we stood across, the
wind tailed us altogether. This was trying work, especially to my
companions, who all felt the direful effect of the beating, and were
recumbent nearly the whole day, and sometimes worse; I, happily, was
able to read and write, and only grieved by the sad delay.
_Wednesday, July 20th. At sea._--Dead calm nearly the whole day, with
occasional interludes of head-wind, which enabled us to run across the
bay, and make the unpleasant discovery that we had advanced, or
gained, only about five miles since we left our anchorage yesterday!
During the greater part of the day we were lying almost motionless.
Eight o'clock P.M. found us just where eight o'clock A.M. had left us.
A lesson in patience.
_Thursday, July 21st. At sea, and Hooping Harbour._--After being
becalmed all night, a light breeze sprung up in our favour at four
o'clock A.M. (being then just off Little Cat Arm), which sufficed to
carry us into Hooping Harbour (about thirty-five miles) by three
o'clock P.M. Here are two families only, all the members of which,
four in one, and eight in the other, were fortunately at home. One of
the mothers is a Wesleyan, with all the scruples of her d
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