nd stockings, and pull them off again when they came
out. Though they are in general handsome, and have good complexions, yet
many of them paint in so ridiculous a manner, that it is impossible to help
laughing in their faces when you see them.
The governor we found here was a native of Chili. The government, which is
appointed by that presidency, is for three years, which appears to be a
long banishment to them, as their appointments are but small, though they
make the most of it. The towns of Castro and Chaco consist only of
scattered houses, without a regular street, though both have their places
or squares, as almost all Spanish towns have. Chaco is very thinly
inhabited, excepting at the time the Lima ship arrives; then they flock
thither from all parts of the island to purchase what little matters they
want, and as soon as that is done, retire to their estancias or farms.
It was about the middle of December this ship came in, and the second of
January, 1742-3, we embarked on board of her. She was bound to Valparaiso.
We got out to sea with some difficulty, having been driven by the strength
of the tide very near those sunken rocks mentioned before. We found a great
sea without; and as the ship was as deep as any laden collier, her decks
were continually well washed. She was a fine vessel, of about two hundred
and fifty-tons. The timber the ships of this country are built of is
excellent, as they last a prodigious time; for they assured us that the
vessel we were then in had been built above forty years. The captain was a
Spaniard, and knew not the least of sea affairs; the second captain, or
master, the boatswain, and his mate, were all three Frenchmen, and very
good seamen; the pilot was a Mulatto, and all the rest of the crew were
Indians and negroes. The latter were all slaves and stout fellows, but
never suffered to go aloft, lest they should fall overboard, and the owners
lose so much money by it. The Indians were active, brisk men, and very good
seamen for that climate. We had on board the head of the Jesuits as
passenger. He and Captain Cheap were admitted into the great cabin, and
messed with the captain and his chaplain. As for us, we were obliged to
rough it the whole passage, that is, when we were tired we lay down upon
the quarter-deck in the open air, and slept as well as we could; but that
was nothing to us, who had been used to fare so much worse. We lived well,
eating with the master and boatswain
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