e and valuable
acquaintances, one or two of whom I hope I may hereafter reckon as
friends. The weather has generally been fine, and never cold; and the
scenery of the Island is of a beauty which you unhappy Northern people
can have little conception of.

"It consists of a great mass of volcanic mountains, covered in their
lower parts with cottages, vines and patches of vegetables. When you
pass through, or over the central ridge, and get towards the North,
there are woods of trees, of the laurel kind, covering the wild steep
slopes, and forming some of the strangest and most beautiful prospects I
have ever seen. Towards the interior, the forms of the hills become
more abrupt, and loftier; and give the notion of very recent volcanic
disturbances, though in fact there has been nothing of the kind since
the discovery of the Island by Europeans. Among these mountains, the
dark deep precipices, and narrow ravines with small streams at the
bottom; the basaltic knobs and ridges on the summits; and the perpetual
play of mist and cloud around them, under this bright sun and clear
sky,--form landscapes which you would thoroughly enjoy, and which I
much wish I could give you a notion of. The Town is on the south, and
of course the sheltered side of the Island; perfectly protected from the
North and East; although we have seen sometimes patches of bright snow
on the dark peaks in the distance. It is a neat cheerful place; all
built of gray stone, but having many of the houses colored white or red.
There is not a really handsome building in it, but there is a general
aspect of comfort and solidity. The shops are very poor. The English do
not mix at all with the Portuguese. The Bay is a very bad anchorage; but
is wide, bright and cheerful; and there are some picturesque points--one
a small black island--scattered about it.

"I lived till a fortnight ago in lodgings, having two rooms, one a
very good one; and paying for everything fifty-six dollars a month, the
dollar being four shillings and twopence. This you will see is dear; but
I could make no better arrangement, for there is an unusual affluence
of strangers this year. I have now come to live with a friend, a Dr.
Calvert, in a small house of our own, where I am much more comfortable,
and live greatly cheaper. He is a friend of Mrs. Percival's; about my
age, an Oriel man, and a very superior person. I think the chances are,
we shall go home together.... I cannot tell you of all