n,
who had been condemned to death, and who prayed to the _Volto Santo_.
I suppose it is by way of economy (they being a frugal people) that
the Italians have their Book of Common Prayer and their Arabian Nights'
Entertainments condensed into one."

_To the Same_.

"_Pisa, December 2d_, 1838.--Pisa is very unfairly treated in all the
Books I have read. It seems to me a quiet, but very agreeable place;
with wide clean streets, and a look of stability and comfort; and I
admire the Cathedral and its appendages more, the more I see them. The
leaning of the Tower is to my eye decidedly unpleasant; but it is a
beautiful building nevertheless, and the view from the top is, under a
bright sky, remarkably lively and satisfactory. The Lucchese Hills form
a fine mass, and the sea must in clear weather be very distinct. There
was some haze over it when I was up, though the land was all clear. I
could just see the Leghorn Light-house. Leghorn itself I shall not be
able to visit....

"The quiet gracefulness of Italian life, and the mental maturity and
vigor of Germany, have a great charm when compared with the restless
whirl of England, and the chorus of mingled yells and groans sent up by
our parties and sects, and by the suffering and bewildered crowds of the
laboring people. Our politics make my heart ache, whenever I think
of them. The base selfish frenzies of factions seem to me, at this
distance, half diabolic; and I am out of the way of knowing anything
that may be quietly a-doing to elevate the standard of wise and
temperate manhood in the country, and to diffuse the means of physical
and moral well-being among all the people.... I will write to my
Father as soon as I can after reaching the capital of his friend the
Pope,--who, if he had happened to be born an English gentleman, would no
doubt by this time be a respectable old-gentlemanly gouty member of the
Carlton. I have often amused myself by thinking what a mere accident
it is that Phillpotts is not Archbishop of Tuam, and M'Hale Bishop of
Exeter; and how slight a change of dress, and of a few catchwords,
would even now enable them to fill those respective posts with all the
propriety and discretion they display in their present positions."

At Rome he found the Crawfords, known to him long since; and at
different dates other English friends old and new; and was altogether in
the liveliest humor, no end to his activities and speculations