a well of excellent
water. Near the well was an arcade, shaded by a grape-vine, to which I
was conducted, and there placed in an old arm-chair. The Vice-consul
and the Moorish commandant seated themselves cross-legged, upon mats
spread upon the floor, and dinner, consisting of roasted fowls and
fried sardinias, was immediately served.

After dinner my baggage was put upon mules, and a saddle-horse was
brought for me. This animal was perfectly white, and loaded with an
enormous saddle, which had a large peak before and behind, covered
with a scarlet cloth, and furnished with a pair of stirrups of a
curious form, much resembling a coal-scuttle; but, _outre_ as
this appeared, I assure you, I found myself very comfortably seated,
and perfectly secure from falling. Thus equipped, we set forward for
Tetuan, accompanied by a Moorish officer and twelve horsemen.

Whips are not in fashion in this country, and their place is supplied
by two long ends of the bridle, cut to a point; but the horses, though
very spirited, are perfectly under command, and need neither whip nor
spur.

The town of Tetuan is seen at a great distance, from being built, like
Tangiers, on the declivity of a high hill, and the houses being
whitewashed. The road from the Custom-house is abominably bad; it lies
across a wearisome, barren plain, surrounded by craggy mountains. Here
and there, indeed, may be seen a small fertile spot, covered with
cattle, sheep, and goats, and occasionally a well, encompassed by a
wall of broad flat stones, capable of affording a seat to a dozen
people. On approaching the city, however, the country appears more
cultivated, luxuriant, and rich.

The figures of some common women, apparently employed in agricultural
occupations, struck me with surprise, as their dress was quite
different from any I had seen when in this country before. On their
head they wore a straw hat, of an enormous circumference; under this
was a piece of white cloth extending over the forehead to the eyes;
and immediately below this another, which reached as far down as the
chin; their eyes peeping through the intermediate space. Their bodies
were enveloped in a coarse haik, a species of serge of their own
manufacture.

Upon entering the city gate, one of my guards took hold of my bridle,
and conducted me over innumerable rocks, to the Jewish town. The
surface of the ground being an uneven rock, which every where remains
unlevelled, the streets cons