llowy battalions charge
they hotly into the lagoon, and fall on the isle like an army
from the deep. But charge they never so boldly, and charge they
forever, old Ohonoo gallantly throws them back till all before her is
one scud and rack. So charged the bright billows of cuirassiers at
Waterloo: so hurled them off the long line of living walls, whose
base was as the sea-beach, wreck-strown, in a gale.

Without the break in the reef wide banks of coral shelve off,
creating the bar, where the waves muster for the onset, thundering in
water-bolts, that shake the whole reef, till its very spray trembles.
And then is it, that the swimmers of Ohonoo most delight to gambol in
the surf.

For this sport, a surf-board is indispensable: some five feet in
length; the width of a man's body; convex on both sides; highly
polished; and rounded at the ends. It is held in high estimation;
invariably oiled after use; and hung up conspicuously in the dwelling
of the owner.

Ranged on the beach, the bathers, by hundreds dash in; and diving
under the swells, make straight for the outer sea, pausing not till
the comparatively smooth expanse beyond has been gained. Here,
throwing themselves upon their boards, tranquilly they wait for a
billow that suits. Snatching them up, it hurries them landward,
volume and speed both increasing, till it races along a watery wall,
like the smooth, awful verge of Niagara. Hanging over this scroll,
looking down from it as from a precipice, the bathers halloo; every
limb in motion to preserve their place on the very crest of the wave.
Should they fall behind, the squadrons that follow would whelm them;
dismounted, and thrown forward, as certainly would they be run over
by the steed they ride. 'Tis like charging at the head of cavalry:
you must on.

An expert swimmer shifts his position on his plank; now half striding
it; and anon, like a rider in the ring, poising himself upright in
the scud, coming on like a man in the air.

At last all is lost in scud and vapor, as the overgrown billow bursts
like a bomb. Adroitly emerging, the swimmers thread their way out;
and like seals at the Orkneys, stand dripping upon the shore.

Landing in smooth water, some distance from the scene, we strolled
forward; and meeting a group resting, inquired for Uhia, their king.
He was pointed out in the foam. But presently drawing nigh, he
embraced Media, bidding all welcome.

The bathing over, and evening at hand, Uhia and