. Especially was
this true of the custom-house upon the Swiss frontier, where report
said that more than one leading Communist had been stopped by the
lynx-eyed officials, who would accept no substitute for the signed and
countersigned passport, and hold no parley until such a passport had
been presented.

In view of these facts, the American minister in Paris had issued a
circular letter to citizens of the United States traveling abroad,
requesting them to see that their passports had the official vise
before attempting to enter France, thus saving themselves and friends
a large amount of unnecessary trouble and delay. Nothing was said
of those who might think proper to attempt an entrance _without_ a
passport, such temerity being in official eyes beyond all advice or
protection. Influenced by this letter and several facts which had come
under our notice proving the uncertainty of all things, and especially
of travel in France, we saw that our passports were made officially
correct.

While at Geneva our party separated for a few days. My friends
proposed making an expedition up the lake, while I arranged to spend
a day and night at Aix-les-Bains, a small town in the south of France.
My object in visiting it was not to enjoy the sulphur-baths for which
it is famous, but to see some friends who were spending the summer
there. I had written, telling them to expect me by the five o'clock
train on Wednesday afternoon. As my stay was to be so brief, I left
my valise at the hotel in Geneva, and found myself now, for the first
time, separated from that trusty sable friend which had until this
hour been my constant companion by day and night.

The train was just leaving the station when a lady sitting opposite to
me, with her back to the locomotive, asked, in French, if I would be
willing to change seats. Catching her meaning rather by her gestures
than words, I inquired in English if she would like my seat, and found
by her reply that I was traveling with an English lady.

I should here explain that although I had studied the French language
as part of my education, I found it impossible to speak French with
any fluency or understand it when spoken. My newly-made friend,
however (for friend she proved herself), spoke French and English with
equal fluency.

In the process of comparing notes (so familiar to all travelers)
mention was made of the recent war and the unwonted strictness and
severity of the custom-house offic