convenience and fatigue; but he failed not at each
pilgrimage he made, to pay a visit to the mausoleums of his forefathers.
He tells me that Kraabaallah was for a long time almost an interdicted
visit, through the power of the Soonies, who were so jealous of the
respect paid to the Emaums, that the Turks (who are Soonies) raised the
price of admission within the gates to one hundred gold pieces. At that
time very few people could gratify their yearnings beyond the outside view
of the mausoleum; and even now that the entrance-money is much reduced the
sums so collected yield a handsome revenue to the Turks.
I will here introduce an anecdote which proves the value certain
individuals set on the zeearut (sacred visit) to Kraabaallah, which I have
received from my revered pilgrim-friend and relative.
'Amongst the applicants for admission at the gates of Kraabaallah was an
aged woman clothed in ragged garments. The gate-keeper, judging from her
appearance, that she was destitute of money, scoffed at her presumption;
she, however, produced the price of admission with much confidence of
manner, and demanded entrance without further delay. The keepers now
suspected the old woman to be a thief, and commenced interrogating her how
she became possessed of so large a sum. The poor old woman answered them,
"I have laboured hard for thirty years at my spinning-wheel, and have
debarred myself during those years of all superfluities, contenting myself
with a bare subsistence; I have done this that the dearest wish of my
heart might once in my lifetime be gratified, to visit and weep over the
tomb of my Emaums. Here, take the fruits of my labour, and let me have my
reward; every moment delayed is agony to me."'
In journeying through Arabia, pilgrims are much annoyed with the intrusion
they so frequently meet with from the idle Arabs, who force their way into
every stranger's place of sojourn without ceremony, to strain the nerves
of charity from 'brethren of the faith'.
There is a maxim well known amongst Mussulmauns,--the words of
Mahumud,--'With the faithful, all are brothers'; and this is the pass-word
with those idle men who pretend to have too much pride to beg, and are yet
too indolent to labour for their support.
A Mussulmaun,--however great his rank,--is seated with his friends and
attendants; an Arab, who lives by this method, stalks into the tent or
apartment, salutes the master with, 'Salaam-oon-ali Koom!' (health or
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