out the dome of the groined
ceiling are such paintings as would do honor to a European Cathedral.

The brick and adobe walls are from two to six feet thick. Not a nail has
ever been driven in the adobe edifice. The doors are of old wood in huge
panels mortised and dovetailed together. The latch is an iron bar carved
like a Damascus sword. The altar is a mass of gilding and purple. To be
sure, the saints' fingers have been hacked off by wandering cowboy and
outlaw and Indian; but you find that sort of vandalism in the British
Museum and Westminster Abbey. The British Museum had careful
custodians. For over seventy years, this ancient Mission stood open to
the winds of heaven and the torrential rains and the midnight bats. Only
the faithfulness of an old Indian chief kept the sacred vessels from
desecration. When the fathers were expelled for political reasons, old
Jose, of the Papagoes, carried off the sacred chalices and candles till
the _padres_ should return, when he brought them from hiding.

Gothic temples are usually built in one long, clear arch. The roof of
San Xavier del Bac is a series of the most perfect groined domes, with
the deep embrasures of the windows on each side colored shell tints in
wave-lines. Because of the height and depth of the windows, the light is
wonderfully clear and soft. The church is used now only by Indian
children; and did Indian children ever have such a magnificent temple in
which to worship? To the left of the entrance is a wonderful old
baptismal font of pure copper, which has been the envy of all
collectors. One wonders looking at the ancient vessel whether it was
baptized with the blood of all the martyrs who died for San
Xavier--Francesca Garcez, for instance? There is a window in this
baptistry, too, that is the envy of critics and collectors. It is set
more deeply in the wall than any window in the Tower of London, with
pointed Gothic top that sends shafts of sunlight clear across the
earthen floor.

From the baptistry I ascended to the upper towers. The stairs are old
timber set in adobe and brick, through solid walls of a thickness of
six feet. The view from the belfries above is wonderful. You see the
mountains shimmering in the haze. You see the little square adobe
matchbox houses of Papago Indians, with the red chile hanging against
the wall, and the women coming from the spring, and the men husking the
corn. You wonder if when San Xavier was besieged and besieged and