ials of a past age, and, in the mind's eye, to group retainers
round the Sultan and the members of his harem, while gaudily dressed
courtesans sang and danced for the entertainment of "the quality."
The Health Resort of East Java.
Tosari on the Teng'ger mountains was the goal of our travels. We were
anxious to escape from the heat of the plains, for the sun had now
crossed the Equator, Java was in its summer season and the rains might
come any day. From Djocjakarta, we should have arrived in Sourabaya in
time for riz-tafel, but the wash-out at Moentilan still caused a delay
of traffic and we were two hours late in reaching our destination.
Sourabaya is the most important port and business centre of Java, but
this fact notwithstanding many of the foreign business houses still
maintain their headquarters in Batavia. As a place of residence, each
has its good points, and those who have lived in both are divided in
preference. Possibly we were not in either long enough to form a lasting
opinion, but we stayed so long in Sourabaya that we prefer Batavia. It
would be sheer ingratitude, however, not to acknowledge the hearty
welcome we received from the British colony in Sourabaya, and the
personal help of members of that community. Here where the principal
business of Java is conducted, as elsewhere throughout the Far East, it
was satisfying to one's patriotism to see the respect in which British
commercial enterprise and integrity is held by native and European
alike, and that the most cordial good feeling exists on all sides.
To reach Tosari, the visitor proceeds first of all by train to
Pasoeroean, leaving Sourabaya (Goebeng Station) at 6.42 a.m., and
reaching Pasoeroean at 8.23. Here a single-pony carriage is engaged
(two and a-half guilders) as far as Pasrepan, where a change is made to
a two-pony carriage (three guilders). This conveyance takes one to
Poespo, 2,600 feet above sea-level. A halt is made for tiffin in this
delightful little hotel, whose pleasant looking proprietress,
unfortunately, does not speak English. The remainder of the journey to
the Sanatorium (6,000 feet) is made in the saddle or by sedan chair. Of
this ride and a subsequent excursion we have painful recollections, but
anyone accustomed to the saddle will enjoy this ascent through mountain
scenery and vegetation, and even more the morning trip down to Poespo,
through the forest, when returning to Sourabaya.
Tosari has been describ
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