ns, running in a
semicircular form; the city itself covering an elevation slightly above
the vast plain extending before it. Here and there we caught sight of
the river Bogota, which runs through the plain in a serpentine form at
about three leagues from the city. The surrounding country was
generally uncultivated, except in the immediate neighbourhood of
villages or quintas, though there were large enclosures for grazing
cattle. On the summits of the mountains which rise immediately above
the city were perched two white buildings, which we ascertained to be
convents. We could see the domes and towers of others, and were told
that thirty-three of them occupied the best sites in the city. They
were, indeed, the only fine-looking buildings to be seen.

I was much struck with the appearance of the town as we entered it. All
the streets appeared to be built at right angles, while a stream of
water flowed through the centre. We passed, also, a number of handsome
public fountains. The streets through which we rode were much crowded,
making us suppose that something unusual was taking place. The
handsomest street we saw was the Calle Real, or Royal Street. The
ground-floors of the houses were occupied by shops; with a story above,
and a large wooden balcony painted green. On either side of the street,
which was well paved, was a foot-path; and as there were no vehicles of
any description, the traffic being carried on by mules, it was free from
ruts, and remarkably clean.

No one seemed especially to regard us, though we were occasionally
favoured with a stare from persons who fancied they were looking at
Englishmen--some of them scowling ominously at us, and bestowing curses
on our heads for being heretics. Beggars of all descriptions swarmed in
the streets, exhibiting their sores, and demanding rather than
soliciting alms. Many were afflicted with that dreadful complaint known
as elephantiasis--their legs being swollen to an enormous size. Still
more numerous were the galenachas, or black vultures. As we reached the
great square of the city, into which the Calle Real led us, we saw them
hopping about, acting as scavengers, engaged in devouring the filth and
offal left on the ground; and so tame were they, that they would
scarcely get out of our way.

On riding forward, we found ourselves in the midst of a large market
being carried on in the great square. It was filled with people vending
their provisions--