s soon as they were gone, the men whom Mr Laffan had hired made their
appearance. The two silleros were remarkably fine, intelligent--looking
Indians, dressed in loose trousers and shirt, the universal poncho of
small dimensions over their shoulders, and a large straw hat. They had
long poles in their hands. The peons wore only hats and loose short
trousers. The machine on which the latter carry the baggage is a sort
of frame of bamboo about three feet long, with a cross-piece at the
lower end, on which they rest the load. It is secured with straps,
which first pass round the burden and then go over the shoulders and
across the breast; another strap passes over the forehead, and is
fastened to the top of the bamboo at the back. The peons are careful to
put a pad between the strap and the head and loins, to prevent chafing.
The chair on which people are carried is much the same as the silla de
cargo, except that the chair has rests for the arms, and a step for the
feet. A peon will carry a load weighing a hundred pounds, but sometimes
double that weight. Although neither Mr Laffan nor I intended to make
use of our silleros unless in case of necessity, we thought it prudent
to take them with us, that we might keep up our character as English
travellers. The sillero who had been engaged to carry me was a
well-informed fellow, as I judged from his remarks to Domingo;--of
course, he did not address me.

Some time elapsed before the mules were brought to the door. Our horses
were led by halters; and, that they might be as unencumbered as
possible, their saddles and bridles were carried on the backs of peons.
Everything being ready, we started; the porters, with the loads on their
backs, keeping up easily with the mules. The road for about a league of
the way was tolerable, but it then became so bad that we had frequently
to dismount and trudge on foot. So steep were the hills in some places,
that there was no little danger of our animals rolling over. The mules,
however, accustomed to the ground, inspected it narrowly, then, planting
their four legs together, slid down on their haunches. All we could do
was to sit well back in our saddles, and trust to the sure-footedness of
our animals.

Our first stopping-place was in a ruinous village at the foot of the
mountains--the last we were to see until we reached Ibaque. We occupied
a room in one of the houses, while our attendants formed sheds, and
covered them wit