a Cassia,
passing Isola Farnese, Baccano, and Monterosi. The road consisted in
part of the ancient highway, but it was in the worst possible condition.
Near Monterosi the traveler turned into the Via Amerina, much of the
pavement of which is still preserved, even up to the walls of Nepi.

Like most of the cities of Etruria, Nepi (Nepe or Nepete) was situated
on a high plain bordered by deep ravines, through which flowed small
streams, called _rii_. The bare cliffs of tuff constituted a natural
means of defense, and where they were low, walls were built.

The southern side of the city of Nepi, where the Falisco River flows and
empties into a deep chasm, was in ancient times fortified with high
walls built of long, square blocks of tuff laid upon each other without
mortar, like the walls of neighboring Falerii. Some remains of Nepi's
walls may still be seen near the Porta Romana, although much of the
material has been used in constructing the castle and for the high
arches of the Farnese aqueduct.

The castle defended the weakest side of Nepi, where, in the old days,
stood the city fortress. In the eighth century it was the seat of a
powerful duke, Toto, who made a name for himself also in the history of
Rome. Cardinal Rodrigo Borgia gave it the form it now has, rebuilding
the castle and enlarging the two great towers inside the walls, the
larger of which is round and the smaller square. Later the castle was
restored and furnished with bastions by Paul III and his son, Pierluigi
Farnese, the first Duke of Castro and Nepi.[80]

In 1500 this castle was as strong as that of Civitacastellana, which
Alexander VI rebuilt. Unfortunately, it is now in ruins. The remains of
the castle-palace and all the outer walls are covered with thick ivy.
Time has spared nothing but the two great towers.

On the side toward the city the ruined stronghold is entered through a
gateway above which is inscribed in the fair characters of the
Renaissance, YSV VNICVS CVSTOS. PROCVL HINC TIMORES. YSV. This leads
into a rectangular court surrounded by walls now in ruins. The beholder
is confronted by the facade of the castle, a two-storied structure in
the style of the Renaissance, with windows whose casements are made of
peperino (cement). The inscription P. LOISIVS FAR DVX PRIMVS CASTRI on
the door frame shows that this was also the work of the Farnese.

The interior is a mass of ruins, all the walls having fallen in. This
notable monument of t