magnificence and prosperity. Extensive quartz crushing by
machinery was then being carried out, and a visit to the locality was
most interesting. We made many excursions up country, and altogether
thoroughly enjoyed our time. So much so indeed that had another accident
detained me longer I would not have felt any regret.
Early in August I started by the P. and O. mail boat for Ceylon, with
mutual regrets on Burton's part and on my own that our pleasant holiday
was ended. I never met Burton again.
At King George's Sound, Northern Australia, was a small coaling station,
possessing only a score or so of houses or stores, and one hotel
so-called. On arrival we went on shore and were immediately greeted by a
number of the most wretched specimens of humanity I had yet seen. They
were diminutive in stature, perfectly naked with the exception of a
dirty rag of blanket twisted about the shoulders and waist, out of the
folds of which issued a wreath of smoke from the fire stick without
which the Australian aboriginal rarely leaves his or her wigwam. Their
hair was plastered down on the head with thick ochre paint, and they
were disgustingly filthy and altogether unpleasant to look at. They
invariably asked for "sixpence," which amount seemed to represent the
sum of their earthly happiness, and with most of them was the only word
of English they could speak.
The men all carried boomerangs, a flat curved stick which they threw for
our edification, and sixpences, very scientifically, and contrived to
dispose of a good many to the passengers. We saw with them also some
skins of that rare and handsome bird the emu, now I believe becoming
very scarce.
A most remarkable thing about King George's Sound is the utter waste and
wildness of the country, not a sign of life or cultivation. The few
natives who inhabit this wild region subsist principally on roots and
such wild fruits as are obtainable, or on birds which they can kill with
their boomerangs. They are very little, if at all, superior to the lower
animals, and I believe there is no institution of marriage or
acknowledgment of domestic relations among them.
One thing, however, there was as a set off against all the rest--namely,
the extraordinary wealth of flowers which grew thickly amongst the
thousand varieties of rare ferns all over the land. What would be held
as the most delicate hothouse plants in England here formed a brilliant
carpet in their wild luxuriance. We l
|