of the scene. We had left behind us a blooming
spring, which enlivened with its verdure the trees and hedges on the road
we passed, and the meadows already smiled with flowers. The cheerful
inhabitants were busy in adjusting their limits, lopping their trees,
pruning their vines, tilling their fields: but when we entered Savoy,
nature wore a very different face; and I must own, that my spirits were
great sufferers by the change. Here we began to view on the nearer
mountains, covered with ice and snow, notwithstanding the advanced
season, the rigid winter, in frozen majesty, still preserving its
domains: and arriving at St. Jean Maurienne the night of the 26th, the
snow seemed as if it would dispute with us our passage; and horrible was
the force of the boisterous winds, which sat full in our faces.

Overpowered by the fatigues I had undergone in the expedition we had
made, the unseasonable coldness of the weather, and the fight of one of
the worst countries under heaven, still clothed in snow, and deformed by
continual hurricanes; I was here taken ill. Sir Charles was greatly
concerned for my indisposition, which was increased by a great lowness of
spirits. He attended upon me in person; and never had man a more kind
and indulgent friend. Here we stayed two days; and then, my illness
being principally owing to fatigue, I found myself enabled to proceed.
At two of the clock in the morning of the 28th, we prosecuted our
journey, in palpable darkness, and dismal weather, though the winds were
somewhat laid, and reaching the foot of Mount Cenis by break of day,
arrived at Lanebourg, a poor little village, so environed by high
mountains, that for three months in the twelve, it is hardly visited by
the cheering rays of the sun. Every object which here presents itself is
excessively miserable. The people are generally of an olive complexion,
with wens under their chins; some so monstrous, especially women, as
quite disfigure them.

Here it is usual to unscrew and take in pieces the chaises, in order to
carry them on mules over the mountain: and to put them together on the
other side: For the Savoy side of the mountain is much more difficult to
pass than the other. But Sir Charles chose not to lose time; and
therefore lest the chaise to the care of the inn-keeper; proceeding, with
all expedition, to gain the top of the hill.

The way we were carried, was as follows:--A kind of horse, as it is
called with you, with two poles,