here we found
chairs waiting for us, fitted with long poles, like those of a sedan, and
were carried by eight men, who placed the poles on their shoulders, thus
raising the chair, with its occupant, above their heads, a position which
we found at first anything but pleasant.

In these conveyances we ascended to the summit of the island by a broad
flight of stone steps, leading up from the landing-place, at the top of
which we saw a ruined fort, and a church, that still retains traces of
having been a fine building, though it had been much shaken by an
earthquake. After passing the church, we entered the nutmeg plantations.

NUTMEG PLANTATIONS.

The scenery was most beautiful. Under the shade of large kanari trees,
whose luxuriant foliage most effectually excluded the sun's rays, were
thousands of nutmeg trees loaded with blossom and fruit in every stage of
development. After passing through above a mile of these, we arrived at a
house belonging to one of the planters, where we saw the process of
curing the nutmeg.

In nine months from the opening of the blossom, the fruit, which
resembles in appearance and shape an unripe peach, is gathered from the
tree, by means of a long stick with an iron hook at the end. The outer
covering, a tough fleshy skin which being opened divides in two halves,
is then pulled off, and the mace, which is found partly enveloping the
nut, is carefully separated and dried for two or three days in the sun.
The nutmegs are then placed on long bamboo platforms, under sheds built
for the purpose, where they are dried by means of wood fires. When
sufficiently dry, they are handed over to the Government (who monopolize
the whole produce of the island) and are then placed in the Government
stores, where they are heated with quick-lime, which has the effect of
preserving them from insects: they are then ready for exportation.

The annual produce of the island is said to average from 300,000 to
400,000 pounds of nutmegs; and about one-fourth that quantity of mace.
Nutmegs are the only produce of Banda. Cloves are grown upon the island,
but are considered to be so much inferior in quality to those produced at
Amboyna, that they are not exported.

In returning to the ship, the bearers amused themselves by racing with
each other, a proceeding far from agreeable to us who were carried,
particularly when we came to the flight of steps, which they descended at
full speed, shaking the chairs to such a deg