ich we anchored, in 30 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the
shore, to the great delight of Mr. Earl's servant, who was a native of
this place. His countrymen, on coming on board, received him with the
most extravagant expressions of joy; and kept him up all night, relating
the wonders he had seen since he left them; in doing which he talked to
such a degree that when he came on board in the morning he could hardly
speak from hoarseness. We found the natives had been suffering most
severely from famine, occasioned by a long-continued drought that had
dried up everything on the island, to such an extent, that the rice
crops, upon which they chiefly depend for food, had entirely failed; but
of livestock we found no difficulty in obtaining an abundant supply, and
at a very moderate price. A couple of fowls were purchased for two feet
of thin brass wire, highly prized by the natives for making fishhooks
(which they prefer to our steel ones) and bracelets. A large pig was
obtained for two fathoms of white calico, and everything else in
proportion.
VILLAGE OF WAURITI.
On landing, we were met by a chief who had seen Mr. Earl on a previous
visit. He promised to procure chairs to carry us up to Wauriti, the
principal village on the island; and, while waiting for them, came on
board and dined with us, behaving with great decorum, and appearing much
interested in all he saw. After dinner we found the chairs waiting for us
on the beach, and proceeded to the village, ascending a deep ravine with
a streamlet running down the centre, overshadowed by the most luxuriant
foliage.
After emerging from this ravine we found ourselves near the highest point
of the island, of which we had a good view. Every part exhibited abundant
signs of industry and cultivation, although parched up from want of rain.
The chief of Wauriti received us with great hospitality, and offered
refreshments of tea, rice cake, and a sort of beer, made from the Sago
palm.
MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT.
He then escorted us round the village, which contains a very good church
and schoolhouse, constructed under the direction of a Dutch Missionary,
who had been for some years a resident on the island, with his family,
and who appeared to have been very successful in converting the natives;
but the distress occasioned by the want of rain was too great a trial of
their faith; they declared that their old gods had sent the drought upon
them as a punishment for deserting
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