built upon one plan, spacious and
convenient, all on a level with the entrances to the carriages; two or
three of these are well supplied with eatables and drinkables, which
were by no means neglected; also a great consumption of tea, a very
general beverage in Russia, served in glass tumblers with lemon juice
instead of cream, which we did not consider a good substitute; though
accompanied with good bread and butter, proved to us far more acceptable
than many other dishes.

Smoking, everywhere so common, is here indulged to the greatest excess,
and not confined to one sex, several ladies sporting their cigarettes.

If not many passengers, a lady is usually accommodated with a double
seat.

I have mentioned the prevailing habit of bowing to the saints. This
occurred on our journey, and on looking back, I found we had just passed
a church at a considerable distance.

We arrived at Moscow at eight o'clock the following morning, having
performed the journey, 400 miles, in twenty hours, stopping at the
various stations about 1 1/2 hours, this journey formerly requiring twelve
to fifteen days.

It was raining very hard, but by the kindness of a gentleman we were
helped to a cab, and after giving the necessary directions, we proceeded
to the hotel which had been recommended to us, but found it full.

With the second hotel on our list we were more successful.

After breakfast, the rain continuing, my secretary,[5] engaged herself
writing home, whilst I proceeded to present our letters of introduction.

One of these friends helped us to a guide, and also engaged a carriage
to facilitate our future movements.

Moscow has a population of about 350,000, with innumerable churches,
towers, gilded spires and domes. The roofs of the houses are constructed
of sheet iron, and painted white, red and green, all of them glittering
in the sun, and presenting a truly splendid appearance.

It was built about 700 years ago, and remained the metropolis of Russia
till the beginning of the last century.

The exterior wall of the city is upwards of twenty English miles in
extent and presents a striking contrast to St. Petersburg.

In some streets we come to a large palace and then to a wretched hovel.
Another time we see a row of little cottages of one storey standing next
to a stately mansion, and in other places little streets as in a country
town.

In the centre of this vast collection of buildings is the Kremlin,
situated on a