immemorial, and the fact of the former's head
being visible in the dish was no guarantee as to that and the body by
its side having formed one whole in the flesh. The ubiquitous collector
of rags and bottles and rabbits' skins was always anxiously inquiring
for the heads also, and the natural conclusion was that, thanks to the
latter, stewed grimalkin passed muster as gibelotte. At Pere Bonvin's no
such suspicion could be entertained for one moment; the visitor was
admitted to inspect his dinner while alive. Pere Bonvin was essentially
an honest man, and a character in his way. During the daytime he
exercised the functions of garde-champetre; at night he became the
restaurateur.

In those days both his sons, Francois and Leon, were still at home, but
the former had apparently already made up his mind not to follow in his
sire's footsteps. He was a compositor by trade, but the walls of the
various rooms showed plainly enough that he did not aim at the fame of
an Aldine or an Elzevir, but at that of a Jan Steen or a Gerard Dow. He
has fully maintained the promise given then. His pictures rank high in
the modern French school; there are few of his contemporaries who have
so thoroughly caught the spirit of the Dutch masters. Leon was a mere
lad, but a good many among the _habitues_ of Pere Bonvin predicted a
more glorious career for him than for his brother. The word "heaven-born
musician" has been often misapplied; in Leon's instance it was fully
justified. The predictions, however, were not realized. Whether from
lack of confidence in his own powers, or deterred by the never-ceasing
remonstrances of his father, Leon, unlike Francois, did not strike out
for himself, but continued to assist in the business, only turning to
his harmonium in his spare time, or towards the end of the evening, when
all distinction between guests and hosts ceased to exist, and the whole
made a very happy family. He married early. I lost sight of him
altogether, until about '64 I heard of his tragic end. He had committed
suicide.

CHAPTER II.

My introduction to the celebrities of the day -- The Cafe de
Paris -- The old Prince Demidoff -- The old man's mania -- His
sons -- The furniture and attendance at the Cafe de Paris -- Its
high prices -- A mot of Alfred de Musset -- The cuisine -- A
rebuke of the proprietor to Balzac -- A version by one of his
predecessors of the cause of Vatel's suicide -- Some of th