en angry splash and roar of the Pacific on the reef, where the
warships are still piled from last year's hurricane, some under water,
one high and dry upon her side, the strangest figure of a ship was ever
witnessed; the narrow bay there is full of ships; the men-of-war covered
with sail after the rains, and (especially the German ship, which is
fearfully and awfully top heavy) rolling almost yards in, in what
appears to be calm water.

Samoa, Apia at least, is far less beautiful than the Marquesas or
Tahiti: a more gentle scene, gentler acclivities, a tamer face of
nature; and this much aided, for the wanderer, by the great German
plantations with their countless regular avenues of palms. The island
has beautiful rivers, of about the bigness of our waters in the
Lothians, with pleasant pools and waterfalls and overhanging verdure,
and often a great volume of sound, so that once I thought I was passing
near a mill, and it was only the voice of the river. I am not specially
attracted by the people; but they are courteous; the women very
attractive, and dress lovely; the men purposelike, well set up, tall,
lean, and dignified. As I write, the breeze is brisking up, doors are
beginning to slam, and shutters; a strong draught sweeps round the
balcony; it looks doubtful for to-morrow. Here I shut up.--Ever your
affectionate

R. L. STEVENSON.

TO LADY TAYLOR

This letter contains the first announcement of the purchase of the
Vailima estate (not yet so named). Sir Percy Shelley had died in the
previous December.

_Apia, Samoa, Jan. 20th, 1890._

MY DEAR LADY TAYLOR,--I shall hope to see you in some months from now,
when I come home--to break up my establishment--I know no diminutive of
the word. Your daughters cast a spell upon me; they were always
declaring I was a winged creature and would vanish into the uttermost
isle; and they were right, and I have made my preparations. I am now the
owner of an estate upon Upolu, some two or three miles behind and above
Apia; three streams, two waterfalls, a great cliff, an ancient native
fort, a view of the sea and lowlands, or (to be more precise) several
views of them in various directions, are now mine. It would be
affectation to omit a good many head of cattle; above all as it required
much diplomacy to have them thrown in, for the gentleman who sold to me
was staunch. Besides all this, there is a great deal more forest than I
have any need for; or