When the natives
observed us, there was in any case immediately a great commotion
among them. Men, women, children, and dogs were seen running up and
down the beach in eager confusion; some were seen driving in
dog-sledges on the ice street next the sea. They evidently feared
that the splendid opportunity which here lay before them of
purchasing brandy and tobacco, would be lost. From the vessel we
could see with glasses how several attempts were made to put out
boats, but they were again given up, until at last a boat was got to
a lane, clear of ice or only covered with a thin sheet, that ran
from the shore to the neighbourhood of the vessel. In this a large
skin boat was put out, which was filled brimful of men and women,
regardless of the evident danger of navigating such a boat, heavily
laden, through sharp, newly formed ice. They rowed immediately to
the vessel, and on reaching it most of them climbed without the
least hesitation over the gunwale with jests and laughter, and the
cry _anoaj anoaj_ (good day, good day). Our first meeting with the
inhabitants of this region, where we afterwards passed ten long
months, was on both sides very hearty, and formed the starting-point
of a very friendly relation between the Chukches and ourselves,
which remained unaltered during the whole of our stay.

[Illustration: KALTIJKAI, A CHUKCH GIRL FROM IRGUNNUK. Front face
and Profile. (After photographs by L. Palander.) ]

Regard for cleanliness compelled us to allow the Chukches to come
below deck only exceptionally, which at first annoyed them much, so
that one of them even showed a disposition to retaliate by keeping
us out of the bedchamber in his tent. Our firmness on this point,
however, combined with friendliness and generosity, soon calmed
them, and it was not so easy for the men to exclude us from the
inner tent, for in such visits we always had confections and tobacco
with us, both for themselves and for the women and children. On
board the vessel's tent-covered deck soon became a veritable
reception saloon for the whole population of the neighbourhood.
Dog-team after dog-team stood all day in rows, or more correctly lay
snowed up before the ice-built flight of steps to the deck of the
_Vega_, patiently waiting for the return of the visitors, or for the
pemmican I now and then from pity ordered to be given to the
hungered animals. The report of the arrival of the remarkable
foreigners must besides have spread with gr