sunk
into the earth's crust, so as to come within the influence of a
fertilising power denied to the higher region.
On both sides of it, far as the eye can reach, run the bordering cliffs,
stepping from one level to the other, by a thousand feet sheer, and only
passable at certain points. There is a width of ten miles from cliff to
cliff; and these, of equal height, seem the counterparts of each other.
Their grim savage fronts, overhanging the soft bright landscape of the
valley, suggest the idea of a beautiful picture framed in rough
oak-work.
A stream, like a silver serpent, bisects the valley--not running in a
straight course, but in luxuriant windings, as though it loved to tarry
in the midst of that bright scene. Its frequent curves and gentle
current show that it passes over a surface almost plane. Its banks are
timbered, but not continuously. Here the timber forms a wide belt,
there only a fringe scarce shadowing the stream, and yonder the grassy
turf can be distinguished running in to the very water's edge.
Copse-like groves are scattered over the ground. These are of varied
forms; some perfectly circular, others oblong or oval, and others
curving like the cornucopias of our gardens. Detached trees meet the
eye, whose full round tops show that Nature has had her will in their
development. The whole scene suggests the idea of some noble park,
planted by design, with just timber enough to adorn the picture without
concealing its beauties.
Is there no palace, no lordly mansion, to correspond? No. Nor palace
nor cottage sends up its smoke. No human form appears within this wild
paradise. Herds of deer roam over its surface, the stately elk reposes
within the shade of its leafy groves, but no human being is there.
Perhaps the foot of man never--
Stay! there is one by our side who tells a different tale. Hear him.
"That is the valley of San Ildefonso." Wild though it appears, it was
once the abode of civilised man. Near its centre you may note some
irregular masses scattered over the ground. But for the trees and rank
weeds that cover them, you might there behold the ruins of a city.
"Yes! on that spot once stood a town, large and prosperous. There was a
_Presidio_ with the flag of Spain flying from its battlements; there was
a grand Mission-house of the Jesuit padres; and dwellings of rich miners
and `hacendados' studded the valley far above and below. A busy
populace moved upon the sc
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