rode briskly for a short hour, and
camped in the woods alone, preferring their silence and dreariness to
remaining to witness, under a roof, further scenes of bloodshed
and murder.

North of the Arkansas river, the population, though rough and "not
better than it should be," is less sanguinary and much more hospitable;
that is to say, a landlord will show you civility for your money, and in
Batesville, a city (fifty houses, I think) upon the northern bank of the
White River, I found thirty generals, judges, and majors, who
condescended to show me every bar in the place, purchasing sundry dozens
of Havannahs and drinking sundry long toasts in iced wine, which wine
and tobacco, although ordered and consumed by themselves, they left me
to pay for, which I was willing to do, as I was informed that these
gentlemen always refrain from paying anything when a stranger is
present, from fear of wounding his delicacy.

It was in Batesville that I became enlightened as to the western paper
currency, which was fortunate, as I purchased one hundred and forty
dollars in "shin plasters," as they call them, for an English sovereign;
and for my travelling expenses they answered just as well. In the White
River ferry-boat I met with one of those itinerant Italian pedlars, who
are found, I think, everywhere under heaven, selling pins, needles, and
badly-coloured engravings, representing all the various passages of
William Tell's history, and the combats during the "three days" in 1830.
Although not a refined companion, the Genevese spoke Italian, and I was
delighted to converse in that soft tongue, not a word of which I had
spoken since the death of Prince Seravalle. I invited my companion to
the principal tavern, and called at the bar for two tumblers of
iced-mint tulip.

"How much?" I asked from the bar-keeper.

"Five dollars," he answered.

I was quite thunderstruck, and, putting my money back in my pocket, I
told him I would not pay him at all. The man then began to swear I was a
queer sort of a chap, and wondered how a _gentleman_ could drink at a
bar and not pay for his liquor.

"I always pay," I answered, "what others pay; but I will not submit to
such a swindling, and give five dollars for what Is only worth
twenty-five cents."

The host then came to me, with a smile.

"Why, Sir, we don't charge more to you than to others. Five dollars in
'shin-plasters,' or twenty-five cents in specie."

All was thus explained, and the