have the sole right to the streets of Wurzburg; they came jingling or
thundering out of the aide streets and hurled themselves round the
corners reckless of the passers, who escaped alive by flattening
themselves like posters against the house walls. There were peasants, men
and women, in the costume which the unbroken course of their country life
had kept as quaint as it was a hundred years before; there were citizens
in the misfits of the latest German fashions; there were soldiers of all
arms in their vivid uniforms, and from time to time there were pretty
young girls in white dresses with low necks, and bare arms gloved to the
elbows, who were following a holiday custom of the place in going about
the streets in ball costume. The shop windows were filled with portraits
of the Emperor and the Empress, and the Prince-Regent and the ladies of
his family; the German and Bavarian colors draped the facades of the
houses and festooned the fantastic Madonnas posing above so many portals.
The modern patriotism included the ancient piety without disturbing it;
the rococo city remained ecclesiastical through its new imperialism, and
kept the stamp given it by the long rule of the prince-bishops under the
sovereignty of its King and the suzerainty of its Kaiser.

The Marches escaped from the present, when they entered the cathedral, as
wholly as if they had taken hold of the horns of the altar, though they
were far from literally doing this in an interior so grandiose. There
area few rococo churches in Italy, and perhaps more in Spain, which
approach the perfection achieved by the Wurzburg cathedral in the baroque
style. For once one sees what that style can do in architecture and
sculpture, and whatever one may say of the details, one cannot deny that
there is a prodigiously effective keeping in it all. This interior came
together, as the decorators say, with a harmony that the travellers had
felt nowhere in their earlier experience of the rococo. It was,
unimpeachably perfect in its way, "Just," March murmured to his wife, "as
the social and political and scientific scheme of the eighteenth century
was perfected in certain times and places. But the odd thing is to find
the apotheosis of the rococo away up here in Germany. I wonder how much
the prince-bishops really liked it. But they had become rococo, too! Look
at that row of their statues on both sides of the nave! What magnificent
swell! How they abash this poor plain Christ