t occasion. As the Mackenzie, in its further descent, continues
to hold a northerly course, and the range of mountains runs N.W.b.N., we
did not obtain any other view of them till we approached the sea.
At one P.M. we saw a party of Indians encamped on the beach of a small
stream, whom we invited to come off to us. They hesitated at first,
being doubtful who we were, from our boat being different in shape from
any they had seen, and carrying two sails; but after some time they
launched their canoes, and brought us a good supply of fresh deer's
meat. The sight of our boats seemed to delight them as much as the
ammunition and tobacco which they received. These were Hare Indians, the
tribe that follows next to the Dog-Ribs, in the line of country below
Bear Lake; and, like them, they speak a dialect of the Chipewyan
language. We admired the shape and appearance of their canoes, which
were larger than those used by the Chipewyans, and had the fore part
covered with bark, to fit them for the navigation of this broad river,
where the waves are often high.
The river varied from two to four miles in breadth, and its course was
interrupted by several small islands and sand-banks. At six P.M. we came
to an open space, bounded by lofty walls of sandstone. In this expansion
are found the second rapids of Mackenzie: at the first appearance they
seem dangerous, but are not so. The river becomes again contracted, and
rushes with great force for the space of seven miles through a kind of
defile, varying in breadth from four hundred to eight hundred yards,
which has been appropriately named "The Ramparts," by the traders. The
walls of this defile are from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet high,
and are composed of limestone, containing numerous shells: for a part of
the way the stone is very white, and in the rest it is blue. Several
streams of water were running over the summits of the cliffs, which had
worn the stone in some places, into a turreted shape; while the heaps,
overthrown by its action at their base, resemble mounds for defence. To
these appearances were occasionally added cavernous openings, and other
hollow parts, not unlike the arched windows or gateways of a castellated
building. I could not help fancying what delight a visit to this spot
would afford to any person of a romantic turn, especially at the time we
first saw it, when the broad shadows of a declining sun gave effect to
the picture. This is a place of res
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