r to the dotted
line CC in Fig. 1, about three-eighths of an inch inside the outline
of the boat, and then carefully hollow out with a gouge everything
inside this dotted line. It must be very carefully done; it is
better, indeed, to err on the side of not hollowing her out enough,
and then a little more can be removed afterward. Next shape the
outside, first with a saw and then with a chisel, again using the
utmost care. Try to give her a fine bow, or "entry," and a good clean
stern, or "run." If the boat were cut in two crossways in the middle,
the section ought to resemble that in Fig. 2. This flat "floor" will
be graduated away to nothing at bow and stern. Next fix on the lead
keel (see K in Fig. 3), which should be a quarter of an inch thick, a
quarter of an inch deep at the bow, and three-quarters at the stern,
fastened on with four long thin screws. Next make the deck, which
should not be more than an eighth of an inch thick and should fit very
closely at the edges.

[Illustration: A TOY BOAT]

The mast (C), which should be about three-eighths of an inch in
diameter at the foot, and should taper slightly, must stand one foot
above the deck, and pass through the deck four and a half inches from
the bow. First pass it through the hole in the deck and place it in
position, leaning a little back from the bows; then slip up the deck
and mark the place in the bottom of the boat where the mast rests, and
there fix, with four small brass screws, a block of wood with a hole
in it, into which the mast can be firmly "stepped." Then on the upper
side of the deck, just in front of the mast-hole, screw a small
eyelet. This is to hold the line called the foresail sheet (L), but as
the deck is only an eighth of an inch thick you must place a little
block of wood under the deck, into which the eyelet can be screwed.
Directly this is done, the deck is ready to be screwed firmly to the
boat with brass screws. If you are in any doubt as to its being
water-tight, you had better bore a hole in it and put a cork in, so
that you can tip it up and empty it after each voyage.

[Illustration: A TOY BOAT]

The bowsprit (J), a quarter of an inch in diameter, should be three
and a half inches long, two inches of which project beyond the bow.
Screw it firmly to the boat. You have now to shape the boom (F) and
gaff (D), which must have a fork at the end, as in Fig. 4, to embrace
the mast, the ends of this fork being joined by string. The b