thirds of the inhabitants took advantage of this
opportunity to rebuild their gonpas and take up their past life anew.
Only the Baltistans remained Musselman schuettes--a sect to which the
conquerors of the country had belonged. They, however, have only
conserved a vague shadow of Islamism, the character of which manifests
itself in their ceremonials and in the polygamy which they practice.
Some lamas affirmed to me that they did not despair of one day bringing
them back to the faith of their ancestors.

From the religious point of view Ladak is a dependency of Lhassa, the
capital of Thibet and the place of residence of the Dalai-Lama. In
Lhassa are located the principal Khoutoukhtes, or Supreme Lamas, and the
Chogzots, or administrators. Politically, it is under the authority of
the Maharadja of Kachmyr, who is represented there by a governor.

The inhabitants of Ladak belong to the Chinese-Touranian race, and are
divided into Ladakians and Tchampas. The former lead a sedentary
existence, building villages of two-story houses along the narrow
valleys, are cleanly in their habits, and cultivators of the soil. They
are excessively ugly; thin, with stooping figures and small heads set
deep between their shoulders; their cheek bones salient, foreheads
narrow, eyes black and brilliant, as are those of all the Mongol race;
noses flat, mouths large and thin-lipped; and from their small chins,
very thinly garnished by a few hairs, deep wrinkles extend upward
furrowing their hollow cheeks. To all this, add a close-shaven head with
only a little bristling fringe of hair, and you will have the general
type, not alone of Ladak, but of entire Thibet.

The women are also of small stature, and have exceedingly prominent
cheek bones, but seem to be of much more robust constitution. A healthy
red tinges their cheeks and sympathetic smiles linger upon their lips.
They have good dispositions, joyous inclinations, and are fond of
laughing.

The severity of the climate and rudeness of the country, do not permit
to the Ladakians much latitude in quality and colors of costume. They
wear gowns of simple gray linen and coarse dull-hued clothing of their
own manufacture. The pantaloons of the men only descend to their knees.
People in good circumstances wear, in addition to the ordinary dress,
the "choga," a sort of overcoat which is draped on the back when not
wrapped around the figure. In winter they wear fur caps, with big ear
flaps, and