lama, as presents, a watch, an alarm clock, and a thermometer. At
the same time I sent the message that before leaving Ladak I would
probably return to the convent, in the hope that he would permit me to
see the manuscript which had been the subject of our conversation. It
was now my purpose to gain Kachmyr and return from there, some time
later, to Himis. But fate made a different decision for me.
In passing a mountain, on a height of which is perched the gonpa of
Piatak, my horse made a false step, throwing me to the ground so
violently that my right leg was broken below the knee.
It was impossible to continue my journey, I was not inclined to return
to Leh; and seeking the hospitality of the gonpa of Piatak was not, from
the appearance of the cloister, an enticing prospect. My best recourse
would be to return to Himis, then only about half a day's journey
distant, and I ordered my servants to transport me there. They bandaged
my broken leg--an operation which caused me great pain--and lifted me
into the saddle. One carrier walked by my side, supporting the weight of
the injured member, while another led my horse. At a late hour of the
evening we reached the door of the convent of Himis.
When informed of my accident, the kind monks came out to receive me and,
with a wealth of extraordinary precautions of tenderness, I was carried
inside, and, in one of their best rooms, installed upon an improvised
bed, consisting of a mountain of soft fabrics, with the
naturally-to-be-expected prayer-cylinder beside me. All this was done
for me under the personal supervision of their chief lama, who, with
affectionate sympathy, pressed the hand I gave him in expression of my
thanks for his kindness.
In the morning, I myself bound around the injured limb little oblong
pieces of wood, held by cords, to serve as splints. Then I remained
perfectly quiescent and nature was not slow in her reparative work.
Within two days my condition was so far improved that I could, had it
been necessary, have left the gonpa and directed myself slowly toward
India in search of a surgeon to complete my cure.
While a boy kept in motion the prayer-barrel near my bed, the venerable
lama who ruled the convent entertained me with many interesting stories.
Frequently he took from their box the alarm clock and the watch, that I
might illustrate to him the process of winding them and explain to him
their uses. At length, yielding to my ardent insistence,
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