missariat consisted of four tins of potted ham, and our
medicine-chest of some quinine, Cockle's pills, and a roll of
sticking-plaster, which, with a revolver and a hunting-knife or two,
completed our equipment.

We knew little of our route save that our destination lay due east, so
due east we steered. After riding for about twenty miles, and crossing
the Mahaliesburg range, that stretches away north for hundreds of miles,
we came to a Boer's house, where we off-saddled to feed our horses. It
must be understood that the Boers were the one certain difficulty, and
one of the possible dangers, to be encountered on our road, for at no
time are they are pleasant people to deal with, and just now they are
remarkably unpleasant towards Englishmen.

For instance, at this first house, we managed to get some forage for our
horses, before our scowling host found out who we were, but not a bit
could we get to eat. "Have you no bread, myn Heer?" "We have no bread
to spare." "Have you any eggs?" "We have no eggs." "Can you let us
have some milk?" "Susan, have you got any milk to give these carles
(fellows)?" Finally, we succeeded in buying three cups of milk for a
shilling, "as a favour," and that is all we got from sunrise to sunset.

Riding, on empty stomachs, for another sixty miles over the plains, we
came to a Boer's house where we had to sleep. Just before we reached the
door, I noticed what I have often seen since, some graves in a row, with
heaps of stones piled over them. It appears that these people do not
care about bring buried in consecrated ground, their only anxiety being
to be put in a coffin, and they are generally laid to rest near to their
doors. There is neither railing nor headstone, and no trees or flowers,
those green emblematic garments with which civilised people try to hide
the ugliness of death. I remember once seeing several graves within two
or three yards of the public road, so that in a year or so the waggons
will be rumbling over the heads of those who lie beneath.

When you ride up to a Boer's house, the etiquette is to wait until some
member of the family asks you to off-saddle, and then you must go in
and shake hands with every one, a most disagreeable custom. None of the
women--who are very plain--rise to meet one, they just hold out their
hands. This house was a fair specimen of the sort of habitation indulged
in by the ordinary Boer. The main room was about eighteen feet square,
with that kin