the great happiness
afforded me to prepare a humble meal for those who come from a distant
land, and brave the inclemency of a Russian winter, to serve the cause
of humanity. May all the Heavenly blessings alight on them!"

We left Mitau in the evening. In front of the hotel hundreds of
persons were waiting to see us set off. When we reached Obay, on the
south side of the Dwina, opposite Riga, at 10.35, we found the river
still covered with ice, but in a weak and dangerous condition. Our
carriages were deemed too heavy to be passed over; but after
considerable hesitation, they were allowed to be conveyed across,
though at a great expense and at our own risk. The wheels were taken
off, as well as all the luggage, and they were then placed on sledges
and drawn by men to the opposite side of the river. Sir Moses and Lady
Montefiore and their attendants were waiting at the inn till 1.30
P.M., when we all walked across. We had great difficulty in walking;
the ice was wet and slippery, with numerous dangerous holes. Not two
minutes before we passed, a man fell into one of these holes, and was
drowned. A similar accident nearly awaited one of our party: the ice
broke under him, and one leg went through, but his body falling across
the ice, he was soon extricated from his perilous position. It was
impossible, Sir Moses said, "to express the alarm we felt in
crossing." It took us twenty minutes to accomplish.

We walked to the hotel, and were followed by hundreds of people.
Shortly afterwards a deputation of the Hebrew community, and many
others, came to welcome us, but Sir Moses declined seeing them, for
the reasons already stated. He requested me to see them, and explain
to them his object in depriving himself of the pleasure of expressing
personally to them his thanks for their civilities and attention.

We only remained at Riga a short time, to recover a little, and to dry
our clothes, and then proceeded on our journey.

_March 26th._--We arrived at Narva, where we remained over Sabbath.
The weather was most dismal.

CHAPTER XL.

1846.

PERILS OF RUSSIAN TRAVELLING IN WINTER--ARRIVAL AT ST
PETERSBURG--INTERVIEWS WITH COUNT NESSELRODE AND THE CZAR--COUNT
KISSELEFF'S PREJUDICES.

_March 29th._--Snow had again fallen heavily, and on arriving at
Jamburg we found the ice in such a bad state that grave fears were
entertained as to the possibility of crossing the River Lugu. The
officer in charge repeatedly refus