hing is an
exertion.

Here the heat is intense, and we have not a particle of shade, there
being no trees where we are, but this morning we are arranging about
tents, and in a few hours we may be able to escape from the sun's
perpendicular rays. I hope within the next day or two to explore part
of the island and its villages. The natives are inclined to be very
friendly, the Greek who brought me the fruit absolutely refused
payment, saying, "It's for the commander, he take Constantinople and
me give him this". I promised to take it in less than no time. If I
could fulfil my promise the Greek would have the best of the bargain,
but this has been characteristic of the race from all time.

Towards evening Thomson and I walked to Mudros by a back road, and
were fascinated with the primitive ways of the natives. Their mode of
threshing in particular interested us. We wandered through the
village, meeting crowds of native men, women, and children, the men
mostly squatting in front of dirty cafes, or lounging inside, sipping,
as far as I could make out, syrup and soda water. This love of syrup I
have seen in Holland and Belgium and in France, and I fancy is
universal in hot countries. We visited the church, which I had been in
three months before. An old verger--for such I took him to be--took us
round, a venerable old fellow with kindly eyes, and long beard, long
robe, and tall brimless hat. He pointed out everything, talking a
mixture of French and Greek; showed us the Bible on the altar, a
beautiful silver covered tome, the various pictures, etc., and the
pulpit of the "Episcopos". "Oh, the bishop," said I. "No, no, Castro
Episcopos." He meant the Bishop, who perhaps pays the place periodic
visits, his palace being in Castro, the largest town on the island. A
candle--a mere taper--had been lighted for each of us on entering, and
was set in a circular candlestick. For this performance we were
expected to pay of course. Before leaving I dropped a piastre
(2-1/2d.) into a plate, and handed Thomson another, but he finding he
had three British pennies dropped all in, greatly to the delight of
our guide into whose pocket all this wealth went. "Merci, merci," says
the old chap who dives for another candle, and lit a second for the
good of Thomson's soul.

_July 22nd._--Thomson and I set off after breakfast to Rosapool, a
village to the N.E. On the way we studied the method of threshing the
wheat, which seems to be occupying