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ill not recognise the need of exceptions, half life's worries occur." Evidently our Chef was a philosopher, and fortunately a man of common-sense. Presently up came the porter. His search had been successful. The luggage was re-registered for Portbou, and we had the satisfaction of thanking M. le Chef for sparing us an awkward dilemma. "Monsieur," he replied, with a finished French bow, "it is a pleasure to be of use, and I am always at your disposition." The train left the station and crossed the lordly Garonne. Nothing in the way of river could look more majestic, with all the light of the sky and all the blue of the heavens reflected on its broad surface. Once more we were dazzled by the rich splendour of the autumn tints, glories of colour. In the vineyards the deep purple leaves still lingered upon the branches. White farmhouses, with their green shutters, red-tiled roofs, strings of yellow Indian maize, heaps of pumpkins and cantaloupe melons, stood out in striking contrast with the landscape. Many a vine-laden porch threw its lights and shades upon walls and pavement. Many a field was picturesque with ploughing-oxen. A hardy son of the South guided the furrow, and a woman with red or blue handkerchief tied round the head, followed, sowing the seed. One only wanted twilight and the angelus bell to complete the scene's devotion. All this we had found a year ago. Nothing was altered--it seemed as yesterday. But now we were changing our direction, and going east instead of westward. Last year Irun and St. Sebastian; now Gerona and Barcelona the bright and pleasant, for ever associated with Majorca the beautiful and beloved. CHAPTER II. A NARBONNE HOSTESS. Carcassonne--In feudal times--Simon de Montfort--Canal du Midi--L'Age d'or et le Grand Monarque--A modern Golden Fleece--One of earth's fair scenes--Choice of evils--M. le Chef yields--Narbonne--A woman of parts--The course of true love runs smooth--_Diner de contrat_--Honey _versus_ the _lune de miel_--Madame's philosophy--_L'Allee des Soupirs_--An unfinished cathedral--At the gloaming hour--Mystery and devotion--The Hotel de Ville--A domestic drama--High festival and champagne--The next morning--H. C. repentant--Madame at her post--Ambrosial breakfast--"Il faut payer pour ses plaisirs"--Dramatic exit--Perpignan--Home of the kings of Majorca--Elne--"Adieu, ma chere France!"--Over the
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