beautiful, the scene was not exactly what I expected, for the
broad surface of the lake was shut out from view by a spur of hill, and
the falls, about twelve feet deep and four to five hundred feet broad,
were broken by rocks; still it was a sight that attracted one to it for
hours. The roar of the waters, the thousands of passenger fish leaping
at the falls with all their might, the fishermen coming out in boats,
and taking post on all the rocks with rod and hook, hippopotami and
crocodiles lying sleepily on the water, the ferry at work above the
falls, and cattle driven down to drink at the margin of the lake, made
in all, with the pretty nature of the country--small grassy-topped
hills, with trees in the intervening valleys and on the lower slopes--as
interesting a picture as one could wish to see."

Here, then, he had arrived at what he considered the source of the
Nile--that is, the point from where it makes its exit from the Victoria
Nyanza; and he calculated that the whole length of the river is, thus
measuring from the south end of the lake, two thousand three hundred
miles.

He and his party now returned northward, and reached Urondogani again on
the 5th of August. The difficulty was next to obtain boats. The
fishermen, finding that the strangers were to be supplied with fish by
the king's order, ran away, though the cows they had brought furnished
the travellers with food. At length five boats, composed of five planks
lashed together and caulked with rags, were forthcoming. Speke, with
his attendants, Kasora, and his followers embarked, carrying goats,
dogs, and kit, besides grain and dried meat. No one, however, knew how
many days it would take to perform the voyage.

Tall rushes grew on either side of the broad river, which had in places
a lake-like appearance. The idle crew paddled slowly, amusing
themselves by sometimes dashing forward, and then resting, while Kasora
had the folly to attack the boats of Wanyoro he met coming up the river.

The frontier line was crossed on the 14th, but they had not proceeded
far when they saw an enormous canoe of Kamrasi's, full of well-armed
men, approaching them. The canoe turned, as if the people were afraid,
and the Waganda followed. At length, however, the chased canoe turned,
and the shore was soon lined with armed men, threatening them with
destruction. Another canoe now appeared. It was getting dark. The
only hope of escape seemed by retreating. Spe