ation had to
pass by him like through an imperfect telephone. We gave the mayor a
greeting from Colonel P----and little else. A very disappointing
interview.

Jan went off to see the governor, who received him kindly. He said that
he would arrange everything, but that it was difficult for him with the
Italian consul, as the Powers did not recognize the Montenegrin
occupation.

"You see, monsieur, here I am the law, and yet the law does not
recognize me."

The Italian assured us that the Montenegrins were wrong, and that of
course the boat would be escorted, and the danger reduced to its least
possible amount. Just after we had left him we heard two things which
made us jump.

A body of English officers had landed at Medua, and ninety English
refugees from Serbia were _en route_ for Scutari. Could we not catch the
transport and at the same time leave room for the others? Suma came in,
and we consulted him. He was doubtful if the horses could be got at
Alessio for us.

"You see, it is Albania and not Montenegro," he repeated.

We accordingly hunted up the doctor. He promised us horses for the
morrow. The carriages had all gone to fetch the English officers. We
asked him about Alessio, and he assured us that the telephone message
had been received saying that they were waiting. We asked him several
times until he grew angry and said--

"Do you doubt my honour, then?"

Before we went to bed the hotel proprietor came to us.

"Do you pay or the Government?" asked he; and seemed very relieved when
we told him that we paid. The Montenegrins are neither loved nor trusted
here.

The next morning the horses came, but very late. In the crowd watching
our departure was an old Albanian without a moustache. That was a
strange sight; we looked harder. It was a woman. She must have been one
of those who had sworn eternal virginity, and so achieve all a man's
privileges, even eating with them instead of getting the scraps left
over from the meal. But the punishment of death awaited her if she
failed her vow. Here was one, chuckling and grinning at some of us in
our attempts to mount the weird saddles and weirder steeds which had
been provided. The Serb captain had a carriage, and another carriage
took all our baggage, which had now sadly dwindled owing to the
continued depredations of the police. We straggled out of the town and
through the crowded bazaar, for it was a Saturday. Passed the Venetian
fort and the river from