ki mufflers,
looking equipped for a Channel crossing. Miss Brindley's head was tied
up in a bandana handkerchief; Jo's in a purple oilsilk hood; others
shared mackintosh sheets and blankets; West pulled his Serbian cap right
down to his mouth. Jan put on the white mackintosh dressing-coat, over
that his greatcoat, then he spread out a red, green, yellow and black
striped Serbian rug, rolled up in it with many contortions, and pushed
his feet into a tent bag. Blease in a Balaklava, showing nose like an
Arctic explorer, got into a black oilskin, one corner of which had been
repaired with a large yellow patch, he then rolled up in oddments
collected from the company, as his own overcoat had been stolen, and
bound it all together by tying the many coloured knitted rug around him,
after putting the lamp out inadvertently with his head.

In the morning we interviewed the mayor. He read and reread the letter
from the Novi Bazar mayor, took an interest in the social supremacy of
Stajitch's father, who was a man of birth, but said he had no horses.

Jo appealed to his better feelings. He scratched his head.

"Yes, truly one must try to help the English," he said, but looked very
glum.

"I will have the neighbouring hamlets searched for horses."

We thanked him and wandered into the village cafe. An old man with black
sprouting eye-brows a la Nick Winter, was sitting there. He had walked
for five days, eating only apples.

"Very good food too," he said. "Here is my luggage."

He pointed to a knotted handkerchief containing a tiny loaf of bread
which he had just acquired. His goal was a monastery in Montenegro,
where he said they would house and feed him for the winter in exchange
for a little work.

At 11.30 three horses were brought. Three more were promised, so we
reluctantly decided to start the next day. There was nothing to do.

Our carriages went. We gave the corporal a card-house to take back to
Rashka with little faith that he would not try to stick to it. He had
not returned the boots to their owner, so we took them from him and
gave them to their rightful owner, and handed over to the corporal a
spare pair of our own boots to keep him honest.

At dawn Stajitch, who had been sleeping in style upon a friend's table,
came to say we had six horses, but a professor had turned up in the
night and was coming with us. He had been so exhausted with the walk
that his policeman had carried him most of the way. Not pleas