next day with an
added zeal.

Fifty miles west of this point they came to Zuni, one of the most
picturesque and by far the most interesting of American towns. First,
though, a few miles east of Zuni, they halted beside the magnificent
pile of El Moro, or Inscription Rock, that lifted its frowning
battlements, like those of some vast Moorish castle, four hundred feet
above the plain. Its base is covered, on all sides, with Indian
hieroglyphics, Spanish inscriptions, and English names. Curiously, and
almost reverently, our explorers bent down the brushwood near its
left-hand corner, and searched until they found the most ancient
inscription of all:

"Don Joseph de Basconzeles 1526."

There is nothing more, and this is the sole existing record of Don
Joseph's having lived and explored this country while Cortez was still
occupying the city of Mexico. Where he came from, who he was, what
companions he had, and whither he went will never be known; but through
all the centuries that have passed since he carved his name on El Moro's
base, the great rock has faithfully preserved the record of his
presence.

The next inscription was made nearly one hundred years later, and is a
Spanish legend that is translated into, "Passed by this place with
despatches, April 16, 1606." There is no name signed, and who passed by
on that day can never be told. Then follows innumerable names of Spanish
dons, captains, bishops, soldiers, and priests, with varying dates that
come down as late as the beginning of the present century.

The first English inscription is, "O. R., March 19, 1836." Then came
Whipple, in 1853, followed by many other American soldiers and
gold-seekers. Now Glen Eddy and "Billy" Brackett added their names
beneath those of the others of Mr. Hobart's party. Then they, too,
passed on, leaving a new page of history to be preserved by El Moro for
the eyes of future generations.

For some hours before reaching Zuni they could see it crowning the hill
that uplifts it conspicuously above the level of the surrounding plain.
It was the "Cibola" of the earliest Spanish explorers, the chief of the
seven "golden cities" that they believed to exist in that region, and
whose alleged riches led them to undertake the conquest of the country.
They called it "Cibola" until they reached it. Then they adopted the
native name of Zuni (pronounced _Zoon-ya_), by which it has been known
ever since.

The town, or city, contained some t