towards the west, we could see our own farm. The distance was
just enough to mellow the view softly. The shanty looked neat and tidy;
the grass in the paddocks bright and fresh; the fences appeared regular
and orderly; the asperities and irregularities of the ground were not
seen, even the stumps were almost hidden; and the cattle and sheep that
dotted the clearings might have been browsing on English meadows, so
fair and smooth was the picture. As we looked on our home thus, the
growth of our labour, we realized our independence of the outer world.
And I dare say that, for a moment, "our hearts were lifted up within
us," to use the Scriptural phraseology.

I believe I was guilty, under the inspiration of the scene, of uttering
some sentimental nonsense or other, in which occurred reference to
"primeval forests," or something of the sort. Old Colonial took me up
shortly--

"'Tain't primeval," he said. "There's the heavy bush, the real primeval
stuff," pointing to a well-marked line that commenced about half a mile
further back.

"No," he continued; "all this round us is only about fifty years old."

"Only fifty years!" I exclaimed wonderingly, for the woods looked to me
as old as the New Forest, at least; judging by the size and luxuriance
of the trees."

"Oh, here and there, there are older trees; but half a century ago all
this land was under Maori cultivation."

Then he showed me the old ramparts that had defended the crest of the
hill. A double bank of earth, now all overgrown with trees and shrubs,
not unlike the outlines of ancient British and Roman encampments. On
every point around us similar traces could be found, showing that the
district had been thickly inhabited. As the Maoris had no grazing stock
in those days, and no grass in these parts, their lands were solely
spade-cultivations. Some thousands of acres between the Pahi and the
Wairau had once grown their taro and kumera and hue, together with
potatoes and other things introduced by Captain Cook.

Marahemo Pa was the capital of the district. Its position, occupying the
crest of a sugar-loaf hill, defended by earthworks and stockades, must
have made it seem impregnable to people unacquainted with artillery. The
space enclosed was considerable; and the immense quantities of shells
thrown down the sides of the hill attested the numbers of its
population--for all the shell-fish would have to be brought up here on
the backs of women and slaves from t