In a couple of years
the Alaskan line from Skagway will probably have been extended as far as
Dawson City, which will then be within easy reach of all civilised
centres.

The three days' journey on the Upper Yukon (or rather Yukon and Lewes,
for above its junction with the Pelly River the Yukon is known by the
latter name), was not devoid of enjoyment, for the scenery here is as
mountainous and picturesque as that of the lower river is flat and
dreary. Settlements are more numerous, and the trip is not without
interest, and even a spice of danger when the rapids are reached. The
last of these down stream, although insignificant when compared with the
perilous falls up river, are sufficiently swift and voluminous to cause
considerable anxiety to a nervous mind. The five granite pillars which
here span the Yukon, at intervals of a few feet, from shore to shore,
are known as the "Five Fingers," and here the steamer must be hauled up
the falls through a narrow passage blasted out of a submerged rock. A
steel hawser attached to a windlass above the falls is used to tow the
vessel up the watery incline, and were the cable to snap, a frightful
disaster would certainly ensue. At this spot, the billows and surf
raging madly round our tiny craft, the dark, jagged rocks threatening
her on every side, and the deafening roar of foam and breakers were a
novel experience which some of our passengers would apparently have
cheerfully dispensed with. There was an awkward moment when the cable
got foul of a snag, and the _White Horse_ swerved round and lay
broadside to the torrent, which for several minutes heeled her over at a
very uncomfortable angle. "Something will happen here some day," coolly
remarked the pilot, a long, lanky New Englander, lighting a fresh
cigarette, and viewing the wild excitement of men afloat and ashore with
lazy interest, and although, on this occasion, we escaped a catastrophe,
and got off easily with shattered bulwarks, I have no doubt he was
right. Going down stream steamers shoot these rapids, which entails a
considerable amount of coolness and courage on the part of the
steersman, for the slightest mistake would send the vessel crashing into
the rocks on either side of the narrow passage.

Six years ago the rapids of the Yukon formed one of the most serious
obstacles to Alaskan travel, and I retain a vivid recollection of the
"Grand Canyon" and "White Horse" rapids during our journey through the
country