thing that struck me on turning from Smith's humble abode to
ramble on the plains was the presence of a bad smell--a very bad smell!
I brought my nose to bear in various directions, but could discover no
cause. Having nothing to do I applied myself with diligence to the
investigation, all the more earnestly that I found it impossible to get
out of the tainted atmosphere. Regarding the heavens steadily, for it
was very calm, and making up my mind as to the direction which the
little wind that there was came from, I followed my nose, and was led by
it to the decaying carcass of an ox which lay not a hundred yards from
Smith's door. My opinion of Smith was lowered! When I passed to
windward of the carcass, the bad smell ceased.

I mention this, not because it is an interesting incident, but because
it is a feature of South African travel. Wherever you go on the Karroo,
there you will find the rotting remains of poor creatures, which, having
"died in harness," are cast loose for the benefit of the vultures.
These ill-looking and disgusting birds are most useful scavengers. They
scent the quarry from afar--so far, indeed, as to be beyond the vision
of human eyes. You may gaze round you far and near in the plains, and
behold no sign of any bird; but kill one of your horses and leave it
dead on the plain, and straightway, from various quarters of the
heavens, you will see little specks which grow and float, and circle and
grow, until they assume the ugly form and huge proportions of unclean
vultures, which will perch on the carcass, and make away with it in a
remarkably short space of time. It was only the skin and bones of the
ox which rendered themselves obnoxious at Smith's. Vultures had cleared
out of it every morsel of flesh some days before.

As I have said, there are no roads worthy of the name in many parts of
the Karroo. Those that exist are often in such a dilapidated condition
that travellers sometimes find it more pleasant to forsake them and
drive over the rugged veldt. This can be easily understood when it is
remembered that the roads are traversed by the celebrated "Cape wagons,"
which are of enormous size and weight, requiring from sixteen to twenty
oxen to draw them. Such vehicles finding a hollow in a road, soon make
it a deep hole, which finally becomes an impassable cavern. In drawing,
struggling, and fighting with these wagons, sick and weakly animals
constantly succumb, are left to die, and