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twenty-one nuns. At present there are, besides these, but three
novices. Its very atmosphere seems holy, and its scrupulous and
excessive cleanness makes all profane dwellings seem dirty by
comparison. We were accompanied by a bishop, Senor Madrid, the
same who assisted at the archbishop's consecration--a
good-looking man, young and tall, and very splendidly dressed.
His robes were of purple satin, covered with fine point-lace,
with a large cross of diamonds and amethysts. He also wore a
cloak of very fine purple cloth, lined with crimson velvet,
crimson stockings, and an immense amethyst ring.
"When he came in we found that the nuns had permission to put up
their veils, rarely allowed in this order in the presence of
strangers. They have a small garden and fountain, plenty of
flowers, and some fruit; but all is on a smaller scale, and
sadder than in the convent of the Incarnation. The refectory is a
large room, with a long, narrow table running all round it--a
plain deal table, with wooden benches; before the place of each
nun, an earthen bowl, an earthen cup with an apple in it, a
wooden plate, and a wooden spoon; at the top of the table a
grinning skull, to remind them that even these indulgences they
shall not long enjoy.
"In one corner of the room is a reading-desk, a sort of elevated
pulpit, where one reads aloud from some holy book while the
others discuss their simple fare. They showed us a crown of
thorns, which, on certain days, is worn by one of their number by
way of penance. It is made of iron, so that the nails, entering
inward, run into the head, and make it bleed. While she wears
this on her head, a sort of wooden bit is put into her mouth, and
she lies prostrate on her face till dinner is ended; and while in
this condition her food is given her, of which she eats as much
as she can, which probably is none.
"We visited the different cells, and were horror-struck at the
self-inflicted tortures. Each bed consists of a wooden plank
raised in the middle, and, on days of penitence, crossed by
wooden bars. The pillow is wooden, with a cross lying on it,
which they hold in their hands when they lie down. The nun lies
on this penitential couch, embracing the cross, and her feet
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