Pfeiffer looked like a poor but very
large village, with between four and five thousand inhabitants. Of late
years, however, it has grown into a place of much commercial importance.
There are some decent houses; but the natives live chiefly in small huts,
which are scattered over a wide area, with scarcely any attempt at
regularity of arrangement. These huts are supported on piles from six to
ten feet high. They are built of wood or of bamboo, thatched with long
grass or palm-leaves; and they contain only one room, of which the
fireplace occupies a disproportionate share. Windows are wanting, but
light and air are admitted through two opposite doors.

The bazaar is situated in the middle of the village, on an irregular
piece of ground, and is distinguished alike by its dirt and poverty. The
articles exposed for sale are only a supply of beef, some sugar-cane,
rice, and a few fruits; and the whole stock of one of the dealers would
be dear at a couple of shillings. The oxen are slaughtered on the spot,
and their flesh sold in thick hunches, with the skin, which is esteemed a
great delicacy. Meat is not bought according to weight, but the size of
each piece is measured by the eye.

The Tamatavians are principally Malagasys; and, physically, their
appearance does not recommend them. They have wide mouths, with thick
lips; their noses are broad and flat; their chins protrude; their cheek-
bones are disagreeably prominent. Their complexion may be any shade of a
muddy brown. Generally, their teeth are regular, and very white; but
against this redeeming trait must be put their hideous hair, which is
coal-black, very long, very woolly, and very coarse. When worn in all
its natural amplitude, its effect is curiously disagreeable. The face
seems lost in a "boundless convexity" of thick frizzled hair, which
stands out in every direction. But, usually, the men cut their hair
quite short at the back of the head, leaving only a length of six or
eight inches in front, which stands upright, like a hedge of wool. Much
pride is felt in their "head of hair" by the women, and even by some of
the men; and, unwilling to shorten so ornamental an appendage, they plait
it into numerous little tails. Some coquettishly allow these tails to
droop all about their head; others twist them together into a band or
bunch, covering the top of the head like a cap. No wonder that much time
is spent in the preparation of so complex a head-gea