miles, and the passage was made in ten hours,
during the night, so that I had not on this occasion an opportunity of
seeing the surrounding scenery.

On another occasion I saw too much of it, as the steamer missed the
canalized strip which extends several miles out from Puno, and we
remained hard aground for thirty hours. We had over a hundred Japanese
passengers--immigrants going to the rubber country--and all armed with
huge revolvers; but as the food lasted out until we were relieved by
another small steamer belonging to the railway company they were kept in
good humour, and they gave no trouble at all. Before floating again
about 100 tons of cargo had to be transhipped to the other steamer, and
when we again got into the deep channel it was again transferred to the
s.s. "Coya." This latter boat was about 150 feet long; it was quite a
comfortable boat, and the food and bedding were decent, when you
consider the part of the world you were in. The bill of fare and wine
list contained many quaint delicacies, and I shall never forget how the
printer of same spelt the word indicating Scotch wine (commonly known as
whisky). He was quite phonetic from the Spanish point of view, and the
word read "Gueiscki," but it tasted all right.

Landing at the Bolivian side of Puerto Perez, the immense plateau which
covers all the centre of Bolivia stretches out on all sides landwards,
until it meets the inner and higher range of the Cordilleras.

La Paz, the then capital of Bolivia, on account of the fact that the
President, General Pando, lived there, was our next objective point,
and we found the old "Diligence Coach," drawn by eight horses, awaiting
to convey us the forty-two miles across the plain. This part of the
journey is most uninteresting, and the road was only fair. All along it
is the same level, stony ground, entirely devoid of trees, and covered
completely with large, round stones. These latter the Indians have to
gather in heaps, and thus make some open patches for growing their
potatoes and grain, which, with their "Chalona," or sheep dried in the
sun, are their principal foodstuffs throughout the year. Besides, the
surplus produce is conveyed to the larger towns on llamas, and there
realised to the best advantage. It is a very interesting sight every
Sunday morning to see the "market," and the curio hunter would just be
in his element, as not only do the Indians bring in vegetables and
fruits, but all sorts of native