We travelled through a wood so thick that the light of heaven could not
penetrate the trees that composed it. They were so large and so close
together that in many places we had some difficulty to squeeze ourselves
through them. To add to our perplexities, innumerable streams intersected
this forest, which always brought us Europeans to a complete standstill.
The only bridges which the natives ever think of making are formed by
cutting down a tree, and letting it fall across; and over these our
bare-legged attendants, loaded as they were, scrambled with all the
agility of cats or monkeys; but it was not so with us: for several times
they seated one of us on the top of their load, and carried him over. The
chief, who accompanied us, made it his particular business to see me safe
through every difficulty, and many times he carried me himself over such
places as I dared scarcely venture to look down upon.

In the midst of this wood we met the chief of this district, Patuone,
who, together with all his family, were employed in planting a small,
cleared patch of land. He appeared highly delighted at beholding
strangers; and all his wives came from their occupations to welcome us.
He told us that, a very few miles farther on, we should come to a village
belonging to him, where his eldest son was residing, and that we must
there pass the night.

[Illustration: Patuone, a Notable Hokianga Chief.]

We thanked him for the invitation, rubbed noses with him (their token of
friendship), and parted.

Soon after parting with Patuone, we fell in with a most beautiful bull,
cow, and calf. I was amazed at seeing such fine animals in this country;
but my companions soon cleared up the mystery by informing me that they
were gifts from the missionaries, who had orders from Home to distribute
these useful animals amongst such chiefs as they thought would take care
of them: a wise and beneficial measure. These animals were tabooed,
consequently they could ramble wherever they found food most to their
liking. About dusk we arrived at the village Patuone had described to us.
We were most happy to see it, as we were heartily tired, and dripping wet
from a recent and heavy shower.

CHAPTER VII.

A MAORI VILLAGE.

The village was situated on the side of a small, picturesque stream, one
of the branches of the Hokianga, but continued droughts had at this time
reduced it to a trifling brook. From its lofty banks, and the large trees