the plates, others
brought small presents of fish; in fact, all availed themselves of any
excuse to get on board; yet, notwithstanding the crowd, and the confusion
attending their movements, there was scarcely any thieving amongst them.
They have seen the detestation that theft is held in by Europeans, and
the injury it does to trade, and have, in consequence, nearly left it
off. None but the meanest slaves will now practise it, and they do so at
the risk of their lives; for, if caught in the act, and the charge is
proved against them, their heads are cut off!

CHAPTER III.

A RAMBLE ASHORE.

On November 3rd we visited Pakanae, a village lying round the base of a
large conical hill, about three hundred feet high, with a fortification
on the top, which gives it its name, pa signifying in their language a
fortified place. Behind it lies a swamp, which is covered at high water,
and which adds greatly to its security; for the unsettled and war-like
spirit of the natives renders it absolutely necessary that they always
should have a place of strength near at hand to retreat to, as they never
know how suddenly their enemies may make an attack upon them. To the
right of this swamp is a beautiful valley, in a very high state of
cultivation. At the time I stood viewing it from the summit of the hill,
I was charmed with the scene of industry and bustle it presented, all the
inhabitants of the village having gone forth to plant their potatoes,
kumaras, and Indian corn. In the rear, and forming a fine, bold
background, is an immense chain of high and rugged hills, covered to
their summits with thick forests, and forming, as it were, a natural
barrier and protection to this smiling and fruitful valley, while from
their wooded sides issue innumerable small streams of clear water, which,
meeting at the base, form beautiful rivulets, and after meandering
through the valley, and serving all the purposes of irrigation, they
empty themselves into the Hokianga river.

Standing on the spot from which I have described the above prospect, I
felt fully convinced of the frugality and industry of these savages. The
regularity of their plantations, and the order with which they carry on
their various works, differ greatly from most of their brethren in the
South Seas, as here the chiefs and their families set the example of
labour; and when that is the case, none can refuse to toil. Round the
village of Pakanae, at one glance is to b