s seem each prepared to guide strangers through
Ronda, but sometimes they fail of strangers. That was the case with the
pathetic young hunchback whom we met in Alameda, and who owned that he
had guided none that day. In view of this and as a prophylactic against
a course of bad luck, I made so bold as to ask if I might venture to
repair the loss of the peseta which he would otherwise have earned. He
smiled wanly, and then with the countenance of the teacher, he submitted
and thanked me in English which I can cordially recommend to strangers
knowing no Spanish.

All this was at the end of another morning when we had set out with
the purpose of seeing the rest of Ronda for ourselves. We chose a back
street parallel to the great thoroughfare leading to the new bridge, and
of a squalor which we might have imagined but had not. The dwellers in
the decent-looking houses did not seem to mind the sights and scents of
their street, but these revolted us, and we made haste out of it into
the avenue where the greater world of Ronda was strolling or standing
about, but preferably standing about. In the midst of it, at the
entrance of the new bridge we heard ourselves civilly saluted and
recognized with some hesitation the donkey's harness-maker who, in his
Sunday dress and with his hat on, was not just the work-day presence
we knew. He held by the hand a pretty boy of eleven years, whom he
introduced as his second son, self-destined to follow the elder brother
to America, and duly take up the profession of teaching in Puerto Rico
after experiencing the advantages of the Escuela Mann. His father said
that he already knew some English, and he proposed that the boy should
go about with us and practise it, and after polite demur and insistence
the child came with us, to our great pleasure. He bore himself with fit
gravity, in his cap and long linen pinafore as he went before us, and we
were personally proud of his fine, long face and his serious eyes, dark
and darkened yet more by their long lashes. He knew the way to just such
a book store as we wanted, where the lady behind the desk knew him and
willingly promised to get me some books in the Andalusian dialect, and
send them to our hotel by him at half past twelve. Naturally she did not
do so, but he came to report her failure to get them. We had offered to
pay him for his trouble, but he forbade us, and when we had overcome his
scruple he brought the money back, and we had our troubl