above 440 feet in
height. In several places are seen groups of tree ferns some 20 feet
high, which form a pleasant oasis. Gipp's Land did not look its best
at the time of my visit. There had been a drought, more or less, for
three years, and everything was dried up. The cattle appeared
parched, with hard dry skins. Since then, however, there has been a
good deal of rain. Sale itself is an uninteresting town of 3,000
inhabitants, with streets at right angles, and the usual Public
Library and Mechanics' Institute. It also has an artesian well,
which is not usual. Although it was late in the autumn the heat in
the middle of the day was great. In the afternoon it is tempered by
a steady sea breeze. The nights are cool. Along the roads are posts
of about four feet high, painted red and white. These are to mark
the road in case of a flood, which is not uncommon. From the
verandah of my friend's house could be seen a vast extent of rolling
upland, dotted pretty thickly with dead gum trees. Fifty years ago
it was a dense forest. What may it be fifty years hence, with the
increase of population? On the morning after my arrival I was taken
a drive over part of the "cattle run." It is only a small run
compared to some. The cattle, nearly all bullocks, have about 16,000
acres to wander over. Everywhere the want of water was apparent. I
also saw the stables, where were several racehorses, but the best
were in the stables at Flemington, near Melbourne. At the end of the
week were the Sale races, but I was unable to stay for them, having
already made arrangements for a trip to Tasmania.
About six weeks later I went to stay with some friends in the
neighbourhood of Ballarat, between that town and Buninyong. I
have previously referred to Ballarat as the next largest town to
Melbourne. By rail it is 100 miles from Melbourne, though not
more than 60 in a direct line. At present the rail goes round by
Geelong. Between Geelong and Ballarat the line is double, and
admirably constructed, at a cost of L32,000 per mile. It is as
well made as any line in England, and the carriages run as
smoothly. My friend's house is called "Moramana," a native name,
signifying, I am told, "picking up sticks." Buninyong and
Ballarat are both native names. It is a matter for discussion
whether Ararat, a town some distance to the N.W. of Ballarat, is
a native name, too, or whether it has any connection with the
ark. I paid a visit to Buninyong, and two visits
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