place very much larger than I had
supposed it to be. Its bye-parts are bad enough, but cleaner, too, than
I had supposed them to be, and certainly very much cleaner than the old
town of Edinburgh. The man who drove our jaunting-car yesterday hadn't a
piece in his coat as big as a penny roll, and had had his hat on
(apparently without brushing it) ever since he was grown up. But he was
remarkably intelligent and agreeable, with something to say about
everything. For instance, when I asked him what a certain building was,
he didn't say "courts of law" and nothing else, but: "Av you plase, sir,
it's the foor coorts o' looyers, where Misther O'Connell stood his trial
wunst, ye'll remimber, sir, afore I tell ye of it." When we got into the
Phoenix Park, he looked round him as if it were his own, and said:
"THAT'S a park, sir, av yer plase." I complimented it, and he said:
"Gintlemen tills me as they'r bin, sir, over Europe, and never see a
park aqualling ov it. 'Tis eight mile roond, sir, ten mile and a half
long, and in the month of May the hawthorn trees are as beautiful as
brides with their white jewels on. Yonder's the vice-regal lodge, sir;
in them two corners lives the two sicretirries, wishing I was them, sir.
There's air here, sir, av yer plase! There's scenery here, sir! There's
mountains--thim, sir! Yer coonsider it a park, sir? It is that, sir!"

You should have heard John in my bedroom this morning endeavouring to
imitate a bath-man, who had resented his interference, and had said as
to the shower-bath: "Yer'll not be touching _that_, young man. Divil a
touch yer'll touch o' that insthrument, young man!" It was more
ridiculously unlike the reality than I can express to you, yet he was so
delighted with his powers that he went off in the absurdest little
gingerbeery giggle, backing into my portmanteau all the time.

My dear love to Katie and to Georgy, also to the noble Plorn and all the
boys. I shall write to Katie next, and then to Aunty. My cold, I am
happy to report, is very much better. I lay in the wet all night on
deck, on board the boat, but am not as yet any the worse for it. Arthur
was quite insensible when we got to Dublin, and stared at our luggage
without in the least offering to claim it. He left his kindest love for
all before he went out. I will keep the envelope open until he comes in.

Ever, my dearest Mamie,
Your most affectio